The Jetson’s Dress

The Jetson's Dress

The Jetson’s Dress

Sewing a dress for my son’s wedding “required” practicing with a few muslins.  This one was the first – just to see if the pattern would fit sans adjustments.

Vogue 8764

Vogue 8764

The pattern seems almost tunic-like, which I did not want, but the empire waist and the cup-size options appealed to me.

The Jetson’s Show used the same ovoid shape in its “futuristic” setting. Here it is used to create trees, the planter and lights.

Among the treasures in the Stash are some-not-so-valued pieces of fabric.  I choose one such fabric – a polyester chiffon that spoke to me of mid-century modern due to the “orbit” or ovoid shapes included in the print.

That orbit shape started  in NASA logo – very space-age and futuristic at the time.

If anyone remembers the Jetson’s show, it repeatedly used those shapes.

“Polyester chiffon” is another term for “difficult to cut out, ravels easily and requires a lining.”

The pattern was modified to be sleeveless, and have a wide scoop neckline –  and it took less than 2 hours to sew.

Love the cup-sized patterns! 

It fit without adjustment!

It was originally sewn without a zipper (thus the 2 hours) as it was a muslin and was not intended to really be worn.

Jetson's Dress

Jetson’s Dress

However, upon completion, my family decided the dress deserved to be worn, so after completion of the wedding sewing, an invisible zipper was retrofitted and the dress hemmed.

Invisible zipper detail

Invisible zipper detail

The method of invisible zipper installation in a lined garment that I use is all machine stitched and creates a very finished look, inside and out – in about 20 minutes!

1.  Sew one side of zipper to right side of back  (just the fabric, not the lining) using a regular zipper foot.  Machine baste about 1/4″ from zipper tape edge.

2.  Close zipper.  Align any waistline seams and the zipper top.

"Zipper Sandwich" Note position of top zipper tape end.

“Zipper Sandwich” Note position of top zipper tape end.

Pin and machine baste near seams and top to secure alignment.

3. Open zipper and machine baste as for first side of zipper.

4.  Close zipper and check waistline seam alignment.

5.  Using invisible zipper foot, seam both sides of zipper close to zipper teeth.

6.  Flip lining so the zipper is sandwiched between right side of fabric and right side of lining.

"Zipper Sandwich" from lining side.

“Zipper Sandwich” from lining side.

This forms the “Zipper Sandwich.”

7. Using zipper foot, stitch close to zipper teeth.

8.  Turn right side out – Done!

Invisible Zipper Detail - Lining Side

Completed Invisible Zipper Detail – Lining Side

A finished zipper – inside and out – in less than 20 minutes!

The dress is very light – even with the lining (cotton/polyester leftovers) so has already been worn.  With sandals it is a nice casual alternative!

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Stash Couture Styling: Wearable “Muslin”

A Very Wearable "Muslin"

A Very Wearable “Muslin”

Prior to cutting into the silk dupioni, one needs to be sure the selected pattern will fit.  Making a “muslin” or “practicing the pattern” to identify any fit adjustments and design options is a necessity.

The fabric for this “muslin” was to be stretch, because stretch fabrics tend to fit better – even when the fit is not quite right!

Stretch linen is one of my favorite fabrics.  The Stash contained an apricot colored multi-yard piece that I have longingly viewed numerous times.  However,   it.  is.  plain.

Plain apricot color. 

Plain and Lace Overlay.

Plain and with Lace Overlay.

It needed something.

Stretch lace over the linen would add that special touch and still, well… stretch!!  Unfortunately, The Stash does not contain any stretch lace.

McCalls 6953:  A Cup-Sized Patternm

McCalls 6953: A Cup-Sized Pattern

Armed with coupons, I found a mocha/black stretch lace at the Fabric-Store-that-will-not-be-named.

The pattern is McCalls 6953.  It is a cup-sized pattern!  I love the fit of the cup-sized patterns!!!!

Lace over Linen - both stretch!

Lace over Linen – both stretch!

I was not sure of the rounded neckline and as this was a “practice dress,” I wanted to determine if lowering the back neckline slightly affected the fit.

I also wanted to determine if a pleated skirt was a viable option or if it would add unwanted bulk.

As I sewed the last skirt panel together, I noticed two HUGE HOLES in the linen!!! These were 4″ long and 1″ wide.  And there was not enough fabric left to recut the piece!!!

Pleats - center seam and "topstitching" of inner folds.

Pleats – center seam and “topstitching” of inner folds.

However, because of the lace overlay, I could piece the underlying linen and the patch was not visible at all!

Stretch fabric does not always fold well.  To ensure the pleats would remain “crisp,” prior to releasing the basted pleats, the inside folds of each of the pleats were sewn very close to the edge – much like topstitching.

The muslin served its purpose well.  It helped me decide the final dresses for the wedding should have V-necks rather than rounded necklines.  The shorter length would be appropriate for the rehearsal dinner, but not the wedding ceremony.  Pleats are doable – as long as they are sewn down 3″ – 4″ from the waist.   And best of all, the cup-sized patterns actually fit – the first time – with just minor adjustments!!!

There are two barbeques scheduled the week of the wedding.  I think I will wear this Linen and Lace “Muslin” to one of them!

 

 

 

 

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Stash Couture Styling for the MOG

MOG-Stash Couture Styling

MOG-Stash Couture Styling

Weddings!!!!

A lot of fun AND a great opportunity for Stash Couture Styling!!!

For the wedding, a MOG dress in a border print silk chiffon, lined with silk dupioni.  The jacket is the same dupioni, self-lined.  All fabrics from The Stash!

Vogue 7963

The jacket is Vogue 7693, a design that includes all the elements this MOG requires in formal wedding attire:  Timeless, elegant, sophisticated, NOT matronly or “age-appropriate”,  and most importantly – comfortable.

Butterick 5982

Butterick 5982

The jacket is a Very Easy/Very Vogue.  Experience has taught the “Very Easy” can be misleading, but in this case, it was true.

The jacket body was lengthened two inches.  The dupioni was interlined in quilting cotton.  The portrait collar is stunning!

MOG Stash Couture Dress

MOG Stash Couture Dress

The bodice of the dress is Butterick 5982, sleeveless and V-neck. Love the Cup-Sized Patterns!!!

The skirt is self-drafted (translation:  pleated rectangles to accommodate the border print!)

The colors of the bridesmaid’s dresses are a very muted pink (MOH) and grey.

Silk chiffon

Silk Chiffon

This silk border print has a bit of the pink and a grey ground.  It also has a bit of green, yellow, brown and rust – all very muted.

Zipper requiring careful hand basting - right side print was 1" longer than left!!

Zipper requiring careful hand basting – right side print was 1″ longer than left!!

This fabric has been in The Stash so long I cannot remember even what decade I purchased it in!  But it is perfect for this wedding!

Sewing with the silk chiffon was not as easy as with the dupioni.  Spray starch was used to add sufficient structure to be able to pleat the skirt.  Matching the print at the center back zipper was a challenge – one side was 1″ longer than the other!!!

Total Costs: Less than $20!

  • Dress:  $10 for bodice pattern ($2), zipper ($4) and spray starch!
  • Jacket:  $9.50 for pattern ($5) and pin ($4.50).

 

 

 

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Silk Dupioni Tunic

Silk Dupioni Top

Silk Dupioni Top

The Stash contains some beautiful fabrics – including yards and yards (and yards) of silk dupioni.  I went through a “Silk? Gotta have it!” period.

One piece of dupioni was just over a yard of an almost iridescent lightweight silver/teal weave.

The Stash also contained a sheer woven damask with the same muted teal and some gold.

A “top of some style” was needed to wear to a Bridal Shower.  By combining the two fabrics and two Vogue Patterns (5891 and 9062) a new favorite top was sewn.

Vogue 9062 - Bra Cup sized tunic pattern

Vogue 9062 – Bra Cup sized tunic pattern

Love! Love! LOVE! Patterns that are bra cup sized!  Such an improved fit!  Vogue 9062 is one such pattern.

Dupioni Top

Dupioni Tunic – it fits!

It is just a simple tunic pattern, but fits so much better than a tunic pattern that requires  modification.

The length and shape were cut from the 9062 pattern.

The collar and front closure were taken from Butterick 5891, a Tilton Top that I have used and used and used.

Damask Collar

Damask Collar

The inner collar, armhole and front facings were cut from the sheer damask.

The inner collar is attached by topstitching “in the ditch” of the outer collar binding and again along the lower edge of the inner collar.

Collar Topstitching

Collar Topstitching

The selected buttons were recycled from an old jacket.  They were the perfect color and size

SIde View

Side View!

Silk dupioni is luxurious, but requires care when sewing.  Microtex machine needles were perfect for the fine weave of the fabric.

To prevent fraying, all seams were serged or french seamed – or both!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Fit and Fabulous T-shirt Remake

Original Old Navy Men’s T-shirt

It started as an Old Navy men’s XXL T-shirt.  The Cerulean Blue color caught my eye – and the $6 price tag sealed the deal.

Fit and Fabulous T-shirt Remake

Fit and Fabulous T-shirt Remake

McCall’s 6747 was used for the Fit and Fabulous T-shirt.  After cutting apart the XXL tee, there was more than enough fabric to add 1″ to the length of the t-shirt version (View A).

McCalls 6747

The McCalls pattern has some shaping in its center back and side seams.  To ensure a comfortable fit, bust darts were also added.

Scrap Cottons and Stash Buttons

Scrap Cottons and Stash Buttons

The placket and neckline were sewn with scrap woven cottons from The Stash.

As knits can be difficult to tame, I choose to exert my independence from pattern instructions and stitch the placket bands to the front prior to cutting the opening.

Shaped Back Seam - with matched stripes!

Shaped Back Seam – with matched stripes!

Unfortunately, the same trick could not be used on the neckline – and it S T R E T C  H   E    D ……

But it was nothing stay stitching (slightly gathered) could not handle.

Love the colors – and the comfort!

Note about deconstructing ready-made garments:  It is always surprising how “off center” and “off grain” the garment pieces will be.  This is especially evident when working with striped fabric.  Because of this, it is best to select the ready-made item several sizes larger than the intended finished garment.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Clothing, Repurpose, Scrap Couture, Sewing, Sewing for a Teenager, Stash Couture, T-shirt remake | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Valentine’s Top – Just one Shade of Grey

Valentine's Top and Grey Sweater

Valentine’s Top and Grey Sweater

Grey and Black have been the colors this winter.  Grey sweaters, black leggings, grey coat…  All very comfortable, but lacking in color.

By Valentine’s Day, this monochromatic issue requires attention.

So, the search was on for a colorful fabric that had some grey and black in it – to match all the cool weather comfort clothes, but also brighten them up!

With all the stores still looking like a black and white photo, this intensely hued fabric was easy to find!

SBCC Gibson Blouse

The pattern used was SBCC Gibson Blouse.  The width of the “skirt” seemed a bit excessive in the photo – almost peblum-esque.  After measurements were compared to other longer blouses, the skirt width was reduced by 4″.

Back View

Back View – such Happy Fabric!

After pre-washing, the 100% rayon fabric emerged from the dryer surprisingly soft and wrinkle-free.

The front band and back neck were lined with a plain white polyester lining fabric.  This avoided “Print Shadows” which would have shown through if the bright print self-fabric had been used for the facings.

When working with rayon, I tend to apply the fusible interfacing to the lining.  It can sometimes “crinkle” when being adhered to rayon.  The buttons were simple red buttons from The Stash.

Beautiful colors!

Beautiful colors!

The colors of the fabric are bright pinks and reds, but also include a brilliant violet, small sections of black, and the requisite grey.

This SBCC Gibson blouse pattern is built for comfort.  It flows away from the body – not snug or clingy at all.

The buttonholes were made (Singer attachment variety) but not cut as the blouse slips easily over the head! Being sleeveless it will be wearable all summer long!

If The Stash provides another lightweight fabric, it will be sewn into this pattern for another of these comfortable tops.

 

 

 

Posted in Beginner Sewing Projects, Clothing, Sewing, Sewing for a Teenager, Stash Couture | Tagged , , , , | 3 Comments

Stash Couture version of the Anthropologie Lata Tee

Anthrolpologie Lata Tee

Love the embellishments on these Anthropologie Lata Tee’s.

Anthropologie T-shirt

Stash Couture Version

Lace and calico bias binding?  The Stash has those!

I thought it possible to replicate these with just a few modifications to a long sleeved t-shirt.

The Stash has lace, calico and buttons!

A quick trip to Old Navy found a long-sleeved long-tailed striped T-shirt on clearance for $6.

Sleeve and Neckline Embellishments

Sleeve and Neckline Embellishments

The Stash had several options for lace.  One motif approximately the right length was white – so it went into the coffee pot to be darkened.

The V-neck was cut and a double layer of blue and calico binding sewn around the neck. A few small buttons from The Stash and The Stash Couture version of the Lata Tee was complete!

 

 

 

Posted in Beginner Sewing Projects, Clothing, Embellishment, Scrap Couture, Sewing, Stash Couture, T-shirt remake | 6 Comments