Stash Couture Coat

When traveling to the frozen tundra (an admitted exaggeration, but it is 70 degrees warmer here), a coat is a necessity.

The pattern selected was Vogue 8933 with its lean, uncluttered lines.

Vogue 8933

Found a 3 yard piece of  suit weight 60″ polyester/ wool/ spandex in a black and white mini- herringbone.  From a distance it appears dark grey.

When the outer layer is suit weight (as opposed to coat weight) temperatures in the teens require a heavy lining.  To counter the grey-ness, the lining should also have some color.

Silk Kimono Fabric with Name?? and HK (Hong Kong) woven into Selvedge

All Stashers are gifted fabrics and items “you may be able to do something with.”  I was the ecstatic recipient of a kimono made of beautiful – and very heavy – teal silk tapestry.  The kimono was fully lined in plain teal silk.  The silk has words woven into the selvedge.

Cutting the lining from the kimono was surprisingly much easier than cutting out the coat from the 3 yards of fabric.

Beautiful Silk Lining

The prohibitively large collar (see below) does not lend itself to cutting pieces side by side – even when the fabric is 60″ wide!  As my fabric had a 3″ wide selvedge edge, it was not quite 60″ wide.  I even had to refer to the cutting layout in the pattern (Egads!  Can’t remember the last time I did that!).

Soviet Spy Coat

The pattern sewed together quite easily.  After attaching the collar, a quick fitting was conducted.

It was immediately apparent that the coat would require modification.  Its gigantic Soviet Spy collar covered my face!

Reduction of Inner Collar

The collar is symmetrical and the fronts overlap about 12″.  They extended above my ears and over both shoulders!

Collar appears appropriately sized here…

It was possible to “smoosh down” the outer overlap, but smooshing the inner 12″  created a large lump under the shoulder of the coat that might have suggested contraband smuggling.

Reduction of Outer Collar

As traveling to the frozen tundra requires passing through several airports, I thought it best to avoid all “possible collar contraband” concerns.

Button detail showing herringbone weave of fabric.

To facilitate vision and hearing , 1.5″ was trimmed from the upper edge of the collar all the way around.  To facilitate closing – and eliminate contraband concerns –  approximately 4″ was trimmed away from the inner collar.

I found the PERFECT sew-on closures – trigger fasteners on leather straps!  PERFECT!

Inner hidden  closure.

So the bound buttonholes had not been considered prior to modifying the collar!  (What  a mess that would have been!)

Then it was discovered the closures would costs over $65! ….. So bound buttonholes it was!!!

Note to Self:  Bound Buttonholes constructed of fabric containing spandex will require stiff interfacing.  Consider contrasting non-stretch fabric!

In keeping with the theme of working backwards, the buttonholes were completed prior to identifying buttons.  The only pair of appropriately sized buttons in the Button Stash were an orange/green scroll design? (not sure where they came from.)  So, coupons in hand, I went button shopping.  The selected 1.75″ buttons were the perfect grey!

Perfect Match to Linen Stitch Scarf

The overlapping fronts required an inner closure as well.  A single small Stash button was used.  A strap cut from the lining fabric extends from the shoulder to be secured with that button.

Another fitting indicated that the inner collar required a second reduction.  Another 1″ or so was eliminated along its outer edge.

The beautiful silk lining – which adds the hoped for color to the coat – provides a bonus of some wind resistance!

The coat and the lining coordinate perfectly with the Linen Stitch Scarf!

Off to the frozen tundra!